Design-Your-Own Drawstring Cowl

Design-Your-Own Drawstring Cowl
pictured in size Adult Medium/Large

The idea behind this design is simple: I was inspired by the Olympics this year, and especially the snowboarders' awesome buffs. More specifically, I wanted to create a cowl that was long enough to be pulled up over the ears or head. And, since knitting typically stretches more than synthetic technical fibers might, I also went ahead and added a drawstring so you could also cinch it tight.

Oh and finally, I wanted this to be a good beginning machine knitting project, so I also filmed relevant videos for both electronic and punch card patterning to help you make and execute your own design for any child, teen/small adult, or larger adult in your life!

Sizes: Child (Teen/Adult Small; Adult Medium/Large) (the child size is roughly 18" around by 12" high, the next size 21" by 14", and the biggest 24" by 16")

Yarn: Malabrigo Sock (100% Superwash Merino Wool; 440 yards [402 meters]/100 grams); #807 Côte d'Azure - 1 skein (color A) & #851 Turner - 1 skein (color B) (all sizes) - both loosely caked with a ball winder to facilitate machine knitting

Another look

Machine: Standard gauge Japanese-style single bed machine with punchcard or electronic patterning capabilities

Gauge: 32 stitches = 4 inches, 44 rows = 4 inches on tension 5

So let's make a cowl! Since I've designed this as a tutorial for either punch card patterning or electronic patterning, I've separated the directions; you can find electronic patterning directions first, and those for punch cards below. And you can even find hand knitting directions below that, if you're interested! :)

Electronic Patterning:

First, design or choose an electronic pattern. If you've never designed a two-color fair isle pattern before, please see the tutorial below (I have recommended that you cast on a multiple of 24 stitches for each size; therefore, it's best to design a pattern using a multiple of 3, 4, 6, 12, or 24 stitches, although you can always slightly change your cast on number if your pattern has a different repeat). Furthermore, if you'd like to use the same stitch pattern I did, you can download the .stp file here (called "Reflection").

Once you have your pattern chosen or designed, set your machine to stockinette, with your tension one higher than the tension you need to get gauge. Then, using waste yarn and a weaving cast on or a comb cast on, and starting with carriage on right (COR), cast on 144 (168; 192) stitches (using needles Right 72 - Left 72 [R84 - L84; R96 - L96]). You can find the relevant cast on videos below - just remember that you should choose a weaving cast on if you don't have a cast on comb.

Once cast on is complete, knit 9 rows, hanging sufficient weights when feasible (I hung 8 claw weights on my comb). At this point, your carriage should be on the right and you can clip your waste yarn tail and switch to your color A yarn instead. Change machine tension to 5 (or gauge tension) and knit 2 rows. Then, connect your Silverlink, and open your stitch pattern in Interactive Knitting. If you need help getting started using Interactive Knitting, see the video below. Whether or not you need help getting set up, though, I recommend setting your swatch width to your cast on number (so 144 for the smallest size, 168 for the next, and 192 for the largest), and your swatch length to roughly 130 rows for the smallest size, 150 for the middle, and 180 for the largest, choosing your exact number of rows based on your pattern repeat. In my example, I worked 176 rows.

Troubleshooting Tips: If you have trouble getting your fair isle pattern working correctly, remember the following things:

1. The carriage MUST pass the point cam completely at the end of each row; this may be difficult, especially if you're working the largest size of the pattern. If it doesn't pass completely, however, your machine will think you're going the wrong direction and will knit all one color instead of the pattern. You will then have to tink back by manually lifting the yarn out of each needle to replace the previous row's stitch, as well use the down arrow in your Designaknit app to find the correct pattern row, and use the yellow/green lights to restart.
2. If you're struggling with dropped stitches, first make sure that your work is weighted correctly (aka enough). If the dropped stitches mostly occur at the edges of your work, it is also possible that your yarn is not tensioning properly (this is especially possible if you're using hand-caked yarn, or you're working a larger piece). Use your hand to manually tension your yarn as you work the beginning of each row if this is the case.

Complete patterning and clip tail for yarn color B. Using color A, knit two rows. Clip yarn tail, switch to waste yarn, and knit 10 rows. Remove work from machine bed by removing weights and then sliding carriage across bed without a yarn in feeder. Press with steam iron (paying attention, of course, to the heat level that your fiber can handle). Decide which end of your cowl will be the bottom edge and rip waste yarn back in order to rehang it on your machine. Rehang it with right side facing you (so backwards from before), as seen below.

After you've rehung your work, set machine to stockinette and tension to 4 (or one below your gauge tension), and knit 14 rows. Bind off using either the latch tool method or the transfer tool method; you can find videos for both below. If you need help picking which one to use, I personally find the transfer tool method easier, but the latch tool method prettier. In this case, your edge will be curled under so the prettiness isn't terribly important.

Complete bind off on bottom edge. Then, with COR, rip waste yarn back and rehang the other end of your cowl. Set machine to tension 4, on stockinette, and set carriage for holding. Hold needles L72 (L84; L96) through 0 and hang weights on non-holding half. Using color A, knit 14 rows and clip yarn tail. Set all needles to holding and pass carriage to left. Set needles L72 (L84; L96) to working (the other half should remain holding), rehang weights on working side and, using color A, knit 14 rows. You can see a video demonstrating this technique below.

Now that you've worked both sides of your top edge, you can bind off using either the transfer tool method or the latch tool method; I bound off both sides together, rather than leaving a break at the slit. Once that's done, create a faux i-cord by e-wrap casting on 6 stitches (video below) and working back and forth until your cord measures roughly 20" (23"; 26"). Make sure to measure cord without weights hung or you'll feel silly later when it shrinks. Bind off when complete. You can also make your cord longer, of course, but it will stretch over time as well so factor that into your length decision. :)

Once your cord is complete, tuck in all ends on both your cord and your cowl. Seam the side of your cowl so that it creates a tube, like so:

And once your side seam is complete, you can lay your faux i-cord into top edging, making sure your ends poke out the middle slit (I think this is easier than trying to get the cord in after you seam the top edging closed). Whip stitch your top edge into place, creating a tube to hold your cord. Make sure not to catch the cord as you seam. Once complete, tuck in ends, and knot ends of cord. You can also stitch your bottom edging into place, if desired, although it's not necessary. And then be proud, because you're finished!!!

Punch Card Patterning:

The design you'll need to punch to match my pattern.

First, choose a punch card pattern. If you'd like to use my pattern, punch your own punch card in the design shown to the right. Then set your machine to stockinette, with your tension one higher than the tension you need to get gauge. Using waste yarn and a weaving cast on or a comb cast on, cast on 144 (168; 192) stitches (using needles Right 72 - Left 72 [R84 - L84; R96 - L96]). You can find the relevant cast on videos below - just remember that you should choose a weaving cast on if you don't have a cast on comb.

Once cast on is complete, knit 10 rows, hanging sufficient weights when feasible (I hung 8 claw weights on my comb). Change machine tension to 5 (or gauge tension) and insert punch card. At this point, the next step requires some knowledge of your machine, since your goal is to work 2 or 3 rows in your color A yarn before your pattern begins, but my experience with Brother machines suggests that they need to work 6 or 7 rows before the punch card patterning begins (and I am inexperienced with other punch card machines). Depending on how quickly your machine begins working the punch card pattern, work another 3 or 4 rows in your waste yarn with your punch card inserted if necessary, and then switch to your color A yarn. Work 2 or 3 rows in your color A yarn, at which point patterning should begin (make note of how many solid rows you work, also, to mirror at the top). If any of this is confusing, see my video below.

Troubleshooting Tips: If you have trouble getting your fair isle pattern working correctly, remember the following things:

1. The carriage MUST pass your working needles fully after each row or it may drop your work from your needles rather than working your color pattern when you make your next pass. If this happens, you will need to press your work after it drops and then rip back to whichever row looks feasible for rehanging, as well as double-check that your punch card is in the right position for you to continue to work in pattern (you may need to work with scrap yarn in order to match rows correctly if you're unable to determine it any other way).
2. If you're struggling with dropped stitches, first make sure that your work is weighted correctly (aka enough). If the dropped stitches mostly occur at the edges of your work, it is also possible that your yarn is not tensioning properly (this is especially possible if you're using hand-caked yarn, or you're working a larger piece). Use your hand to manually tension your yarn as you work the beginning of each row if this is the case.

Once patterning begins, set row counter to zero, and then work roughly 130 rows for the smallest size, 150 for the middle, and 180 for the largest, choosing your exact number of rows based on your pattern repeat. In my example, I worked 176 rows.

Complete patterning and clip tail for yarn color B. Remove punch card. Using color A, knit 2 or 3 rows, to mirror the other side of your work. Clip yarn tail, switch to waste yarn, and knit 10 rows. Remove work from machine bed by removing weights and then sliding carriage across bed without a yarn in feeder. Press with steam iron (paying attention, of course, to the heat level that your fiber can handle). Decide which end of your cowl will be the bottom edge and rip waste yarn back in order to rehang it on your machine. Rehang it with right side facing you (so backwards from before), as seen below.

After you've rehung your work, set machine to stockinette and tension to 4 (or one below your gauge tension), and knit 14 rows. Bind off using either the latch tool method or the transfer tool method; you can find videos for both below. If you need help picking which one to use, I personally find the transfer tool method easier, but the latch tool method prettier. In this case, your edge will be curled under so the prettiness isn't terribly important.

Complete bind off on bottom edge. Then, with COR, rip waste yarn back and rehang the other end of your cowl. Set machine to tension 4, on stockinette, and set carriage for holding. Hold needles L72 (L84; L96) through 0 and hang weights on non-holding half. Using color A, knit 14 rows and clip yarn tail. Set all needles to holding and pass carriage to left. Set needles L72 (L84; L96) to working (the other half should remain holding), rehang weights on working side and, using color A, knit 14 rows. You can see a video demonstrating this technique below.

Now that you've worked both sides of your top edge, you can bind off using either the transfer tool method or the latch tool method; I bound off both sides together, rather than leaving a break at the slit. Once that's done, create a faux i-cord by e-wrap casting on 6 stitches (video below) and working back and forth until your cord measures roughly 20" (23"; 26"). Make sure to measure cord without weights hung or you'll feel silly later when it shrinks. Bind off when complete. You can also make your cord longer, of course, but it will stretch over time as well so factor that into your length decision. :)

Once your cord is complete, tuck in all ends on both your cord and your cowl. Seam the side of your cowl so that it creates a tube, like so:

And once your side seam is complete, you can lay your faux i-cord into top edging, making sure your ends poke out the middle slit (I think this is easier than trying to get the cord in after you seam the top edging closed). Whip stitch your top edge into place, creating a tube to hold your cord. Make sure not to catch the cord as you seam. Once complete, tuck in ends, and knot ends of cord. You can also stitch your bottom edging into place, if desired, although it's not necessary. And then be proud, because you're finished!!!

Hand Knitting:

Sizes: Child (Teen/Adult Small; Adult Medium/Large)

Yarn: Malabrigo Sock (100% Superwash Merino Wool; 440 yards [402 meters]/100 grams); #807 Côte d'Azure - 1 skein (color A) & #851 Turner - 1 skein (color B) (all sizes)

Needles: one 16" circular needle in size US 2, two double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 2

Notions: tapestry needle, stitch marker

Gauge: 32 stitches = 4 inches on size US 2 needles

So let's make a cowl! Using your 16" circular needle and your color A yarn, then, cast on 144 (168; 192) stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Purl 14 rows around. Then, knit 2 rows around. At this point, you can begin your fair isle color pattern, which you can either design yourself, of course, or follow what I've done - if you're designing your own, just try to make it a multiple of 3, 4, 6, 12, or 24, or you'll have to adjust your cast on number to match your repeat. You can find a diagram of my color pattern below.

My pattern (I called it "Reflection")

Work this pattern until piece measures roughly 12" (14"; 16") from the beginning of the color pattern and you're at a good stopping place for your design (I worked 176 rows for my large cowl). Clip your color B yarn, and, using your color A yarn, knit 2 rows around. Clip your color A yarn. Slip 72 [84; 96] stitches purlwise from left to right needle, at which point your needle break should be aligned with the exact front of your cowl. Then, using color A, knit the following rows back and forth, rather than in the round. Go ahead and remove your stitch marker when you come across it:

Row 1 (right side): slip 1 stitch purlwise (sl1), purl remainder of row

Row 2: sl1, knit remainder of row

Knit rows 1 & 2 seven times in total, and then bind off loosely. Using your dpns, cast on 5 stitches and work in i-cord until cord measures roughly 20" (23"; 26") long. Bind off loosely and tuck in ends. Lay your faux i-cord into top edging (that's the one with the slit in it), making sure your ends poke out the middle slit (I think this is easier than trying to get the cord in after you seam the top edging closed). Whip stitch your top edge into place, creating a tube to hold your cord. Make sure not to catch the cord as you seam. Once complete, tuck in ends, and knot ends of cord. You can also stitch your bottom edging into place, if desired, although it's not necessary. And then be proud, because you're finished!!!